Stipe Božić – writer and photographer

Bozic is well known writer with hundreds of articels for daily newspapers and magazines like National Geographic. He published 3 books: WAY TO THE TOP OF THE WORLD and SEVEN SUMMITS, SACRED MOUNTAINS OF THE WORLD and K2 – TRIUMF AND TRAGEDY . His photos were on many exibitions and some of them were selected on exebition CROATIAN PHOTOGRAPHY FROM 1950 TO NOWDAYS in Zagreb.

Stipe Božić – award wining film maker

I am an award winning film maker, climbed the 7 summits, journeyed to the North Pole on skis, and filmed all over the world including many Himalayan expeditions; I have stood with video camera on the top of 3 highest peaks in the world: twice on Mt. Everest, once on K2 and once on Kagchenjunga. Since first distant journeys I always carrie a movie camera.

Awards

Silver Gentian for best sport documentary in Trento (Italy 1999) for Reticent Wall:

Audience Award on KIMFF (Kathmandu 2002) for Reticent Wall

Grand Prix for best film in Poprad (Slovakia) and Golden Camera for best alpine documentary in Graz (Austria) for Dhaulagiri Express: director and cameraman –

Awarded for best Adventure film on International film festival
in Split) karus over Kupres:director and cameraman

 

Filmings imposiblle

The succesful serial of films about climbing the SEVEN SUMMITS
underwater filmings in deeps off the Adriatic Sea
serial of 3 films FAROS-PAROS. Reconstruction of ancient sailing from Croatian island of Hvar to Paros in Agean Sea in Greece.
descended 1395 meter under ground in the Lukas Cave on the Mount Velebit in Croatia and made good stories about underground (TV serial DEEPS)
First Croatian on to the North Pole, with skies and movie cammera.

 

Filmography

Hindukush ’75: cameraman.
Lhotse south face ’81: cameraman
Kang Guru ’82: cameraman and director
Manaslu ’84: cameraman and director
Anapurna south face ’92: cameraman
Zasto (Why – Everest ’79): director and cameraman
K2 Triumph and Tragedy: cameraman and director
7 Summits (TV serial of 18 films): cameraman and director
Deeps (TV serial of 10 films): director and cameraman
From Siberia To The North Pole: Cameraman and director
Mountains of Croatia (Tv serial of 8 films) director and cameraman
Karst and Sea: director and cameraman (Tv serial of 4 films)
Faros Paros:director and cameraman (Tv serial of 3 films)
Sacred Mountains Of The World: (Tv serial of 11 films) director and cameraman
River of Croatia: (Tv serial of 10 films) director and cameraman
Pustinje svijeta: (Tv serial of 10 films) director and cameraman
On the trail of the ancients: director and cameraman
Call 112: (Tv serial of 10 films) director and cameraman
Mate worldwide: (Tv serial of 10 films) director
Flying over Croatia: (Tv serial of 8 films) director and cameraman

Stipe Božić – climbing record

1975. Hindukush in Afghanistan. Noshaq 7942 m. South ridge with Boris Siriscevic.
1979. Himalayas – Mount Everest 8848 m. West ridge (new route) summited with Ang Phu and Stane Belak-Srauf. Ang Phu died on the way down.
1981. Himalayas – Lhotse 8516 m. New route in South face with Slovenian team. Stipe soled from 7500 to 8150 m. doing new route and established camp 6.
1982. Himalayas – Kang Guru 7000 m. Croatian expedition from west side. Stipe summited wit Branko Separovic and Vladimr Mesaric. Separovic skied from the summit.
1983. Himalayas – Manaslu 8163 m. Unsuccessful Croatian expedition in the South face. Ante Bucan and Nejc Zaplotnik have died under ice avalanche.
1984. Himalayas – Manaslu 8613 m. Croatian 4 member’s expedition. Stipe reached summit with Slovenian climber Viki Grošelj.
1985. Alps – Eiger. Classic Route in North face with Edo Retelj.
1985. Alps – Grandes Jurasess. Casin route in North face wit Edo Retelj.
1986. Yosemite – El Capitan. Climbed Triple Direct route with Ivica Matkovic and Zdenko Mijanic.
1989. Himalayas – Mount Everest 8848 m. South East Ridge. On the summit with Viki Grošelj, Dimitar Ilijevski, Sherpas Sonam and Agiva. Died Dimitar Ilijevski from Macedonia.
1990. Alps – Materhorn. Classic route in North Face (solo)
1991. Himalayas – Kangchenjunga 8586 m. South face with Slovenian International expedition. In the expedition was Wanda Rutkiewitz from Poland. Stipe summited with Viki Grošelj. 2 days letter died couple of Slovenians Marija Frantar and Jože Rožman.
1992. Himalayas – Annapurna 8091 m. Slovenian unsuccessful expedition in South face.
1993. K2 – Karakorum. Abruzzi Ridge. Slovenian International expedition. Stipe, Viki Grošelj, Carlos Carsolio and Zvonko Požgaj reached the summit. Bostjan Kekec died the summit. Bostjan Kekec died of Cerebral Pneumonia.
1995. Himalayas – Annapurna. French route in North face. Stipe and Viki reached 7700 m. Two days later brothers Davo and Karnicar with Carlos Carsolio reached the summit. Karnicar brothers skied from the top.
1996. Himalayas – Mount Everest 8848 m. Slovenian Ski expedition on the North ridge. Stipe reached 7000 m. and filmed Davo Karnicar who wanted to do ski descent from summit. But weather was very bad.
1996. Alaska – Mount McKinley. Messner route (solo).
1996. Kenya – Mount Kenya. North face with Vladimir Mesaric from Croatia.
1997. Antarctica – Mount Vinson. New route in Southwest face with Viki Groselj and Rafko Vodisek. Unclimbed peak Mount Croatia.
1999. North Pole – From Siberia to the North Pole on the skis with International Polar Expedition.
1999. Himalayas – Dhaulagiri 8167 m. filming the Tomaz Humar on his climbing South Face of Dhaulagiri. Stipe reached 7000 m.
2000 Elbrus normal route.
2001. Mount Logan 6025 m. in St Elias range.
2002. Pico Orizaba in Mexico (third highest peak in N. America)
2003.Pari Lapcha unclimbed peak in Himalaya 6000 met.
2003. Nanga Parbat unsuccessful expedition with Tomaz Humar.
2005. On the summit of Ama Dablam.
2006. Muztagh Ata – Up to 7000 met.
2009. Muztagh Ata – Summit (7546 m) and skiing from the top.

7 summits

1999. Elbrus – Europe
1997. Mount Vinson – Antarctica
1996. Aconcaqua – South America
1996. Mount McKinley – NorthAmerica
1996. Mount Kosciusko – Australia
1996. Mount Cook – New Zeland
1996. Kilimanjaro – Africa
1989. Mount Everest – Asia
1979. Mount Everest – Asia
1974. Mont Blanc – Europe

Alpine climbs

Stipe climbed almost all-important alpine peaks. But the climbing 3 classic problems of Alps, Eiger, Grandess Jurases and Materhorn was the most important.
North faces Eiger and Grandess Jurases he climbed with his club mate Eduard Retelj 1984. But north face of Materhorn he climbed alone (solo) 1990.

Other alpine climbings

North-west face of Dru: Lesure route.
North face of Weisbahorn.
West face of Aguile du Midi: Frendo route.
South face of Agule du Midi.